2019
UWRF duly opened – Now let the show begin!
24 October 2019
UWRF opened last night with a degree of necessary pomp, tending more to the pompous in some of the long, rambling speeches by local dignitaries who I’m sure have never read a work of literature in their lives. (I tried - and failed - to picture the head of Ubud’s royal family, Cokorde Putra, tucked up in bed at night with the latest novel from a Jakarta publisher!) He is probably more concerned about the role UWRF plays in bringing in more tourists to Ubud than its role in promoting Indonesian literature to the world.
I was seated next to great old friend Pam A from Hobart - excited to see each other in the flesh again, though we are constantly in contact. Our friendship was cemented nearly 30 years ago over sharing the same sense of humour when confronted with pomposity at a conference in Ambon. So we helped each other endure the endless speeches. BUT! We were rewarded at the end of the evening with a dance of such extraordinary calibre, a stand-out performance in the fifty years of Balinese dances I have seen. A classic based on the Legong’s two young girls but so innovative - this was performed by four teenage boys, two of them older. Their bare upper bodies were intricately painted with a translucent pink and gold waistcoat. The dance with fans, accompanied by a female singer, was largely performed seated, with very subtle movements but with sudden bursts of gymnastics! At a later stage the two younger boys, in an almost trance-like state, were slowly dressed as girls in the Legong costume. Then they were up on the shoulders of the older lads swaying and dancing - absolutely stunning. World class! What a privilege to have seen it. (Hard to get good pics, alas.)
Back to real world activities. The day had began with a final breakfast with the four of us at “Tara” then Ketut dropped us in town and we went our separate ways. Jeffrey and Anna stay at their favourite haunt, Gusti Gardens.
Dropped our bags at Puri Saraswati then I took Pam B on a whirlwind walking tour of Ubud’s main features - the Lotus Pond, the Palace, the market and Ganesha bookshop. Bought some Enid Blyton Famous Five books in Indonesian to donate to the Books For Bali project - I figured if the Famous Five was the start of all our later love of books (leading me on this path to Ubud seven decades later!!), it might work for Balinese kids in remote schools too!
Bumped into Barbara Bicego, another regular festival friend, at Ganesha buying more books than she needs - (her second visit there adding to her vast library this trip.) We ended up going to Casa Luna together for a drink afterwards and having a catch up. Met up with her friend Kate too – her companion in Josh’s granny flat two years ago. Then a rest and later a swim and G and Ts with Jane and Helen before I set off in my finery for the Palace.
Now it is almost time for breakfast and then up to the festival site. A frantically full program coming up. Can’t wait! Starting with a session on democracy in Indonesia. I just woke up to the news that Jokowi has appointed Prabowo, his opponent in the last two elections and with a history of criminal human rights abuse, as his Minister for Defence in his new cabinet. Pressure from the old forces of the Soeharto era is being reasserted all over. God help democracy!
Bumped into Barbara Bicego, another regular festival friend, at Ganesha buying more books than she needs - (her second visit there adding to her vast library this trip.) We ended up going to Casa Luna together for a drink afterwards and having a catch up. Met up with her friend Kate too – her companion in Josh’s granny flat two years ago. Then a rest and later a swim and G and Ts with Jane and Helen before I set off in my finery for the Palace.
Now it is almost time for breakfast and then up to the festival site. A frantically full program coming up. Can’t wait! Starting with a session on democracy in Indonesia. I just woke up to the news that Jokowi has appointed Prabowo, his opponent in the last two elections and with a history of criminal human rights abuse, as his Minister for Defence in his new cabinet. Pressure from the old forces of the Soeharto era is being reasserted all over. God help democracy!