2019
Payangan Sunrise
21 October 2019
It is a different world to wake up to out here in the village, 20 minutes north of Ubud, six hours flying time north-west of Sydney. The dawn chorus of ducks and frogs, the occasional dog bark, otherwise absolute stillness. Paradise rediscovered!
This villa that Ketut Yogi has built is an absolute gem. More in the stark white style of a miniature Tara than anything relating to Balinese architecture, but it has been beautifully designed to provide every modern comfort and has rice field views from the upper level to rival, even surpass, the expanse of quivering green I have lost at Josh’s old place.
Not up for long when the even earlier riser, Ketut appeared to take us walking through his village. A glorious hour traipsing (stumbling?) through the sawah, some of it on a track, but mostly along the narrow grassy dikes between the irrigated fields. Challenging for two 75 year olds, but sprightly 50-year old Ketut was there to offer a hand on the climbs and descents and across the rickety two-stick bamboo bridges! Did not know I could still accomplish this type of adventure. We saw all the rural scenes and domestic animals of Bali - ducks, cows, pigs - and a great lesson for Pam B on the intricate irrigation system the Balinese are so expert at. Was fun being out there in the midst of that ocean of green!
The poles in the photo are bamboo wind chimes - musical scarecrows. The ones near our place are going bananas in the early afternoon breeze.
The poles in the photo are bamboo wind chimes - musical scarecrows. The ones near our place are going bananas in the early afternoon breeze.
Home to fruit and banana pancakes for brekkie! There’s a little kitchen / eating pavilion in our garden. A tiny pool too, where I will have to do 100 laps to reach my total of 500 meters!
The journey from Sydney yesterday was much the same as the many dozens of Garuda flights over the years. Terrible selection of movies - only watched one James Bond - For Your Eyes Only with Roger Moore - endless exhilarating chase scenes, and a HUGE body count! Not my thing, but a way to while away an hour or two. The rest of the time was spent listening to Tchaikovsky and Bach concertos.
It was a bit complicated meeting up with Ketut at the crowded airport without the phone working. But we were eventually on our way, dropping Deirdre off in Ubud then coming on out here just before dusk. First G and T of the trip, then Ketut arranged nasi bungkus for us to be brought in for a light dinner - little parcels of fried rice and egg from a local warung. Early night (Bali time) but near 11 pm for us coming from Oz.
This is a perfect reintroduction to Bali for Pam B who has not been here since her youth. She is taking it all in, entranced! Payangan is certainly more like the old Bali I remember from my youth too! And a great interval between Sydney life and starting the wild social and literary scene of the festival in a couple of day’s time.
The journey from Sydney yesterday was much the same as the many dozens of Garuda flights over the years. Terrible selection of movies - only watched one James Bond - For Your Eyes Only with Roger Moore - endless exhilarating chase scenes, and a HUGE body count! Not my thing, but a way to while away an hour or two. The rest of the time was spent listening to Tchaikovsky and Bach concertos.
It was a bit complicated meeting up with Ketut at the crowded airport without the phone working. But we were eventually on our way, dropping Deirdre off in Ubud then coming on out here just before dusk. First G and T of the trip, then Ketut arranged nasi bungkus for us to be brought in for a light dinner - little parcels of fried rice and egg from a local warung. Early night (Bali time) but near 11 pm for us coming from Oz.
This is a perfect reintroduction to Bali for Pam B who has not been here since her youth. She is taking it all in, entranced! Payangan is certainly more like the old Bali I remember from my youth too! And a great interval between Sydney life and starting the wild social and literary scene of the festival in a couple of day’s time.
Off to do the business of money changing, picking up festival pass at the box office and getting a phone SIM card - Ketut will take us - then back here for those 100 laps in the cool of the pool.
The rambutan are early this year- climate change! But I’m delighted to indulge.
The rambutan are early this year- climate change! But I’m delighted to indulge.
Sending my greetings to you all. This is the very spot where saying “Wish you were here” is more than mere hollow words! Next time you come to Bali treat yourselves to a few days at Ketut’s Vila Abihnaya